Pinot Pressure Oregon can satisfy the demand. BY LANCE SPARKS Comes down to it, wine is just chemicals, right? Might be the most organically grown, biodynamically crafted, sustainably harvested, terroir-driven vino on the planet, but it's still just 750 ml of tasty chemicals: mostly water, some esters, enols, acids, sugars, dab of alcohol, sometimes (in reds) some free-floating particles of grape skin, assorted other minor ingredients and there you have it — wine. Yummy, sure. Pleasantly whiffy, uh-huh. Adds a soupcon of je ne sais quoi to a meal, puts an affable buzz in the brain, might elevate repartee at the table, but we have to ask, in the immortal words of that worldly sage, Bugs Bunny, "What's all the hubbub, Bub?" OK, even if we admit, right here at the gate, that human beings are biologically bonkers, certifiably loonytoony, neurologically cross-wired, or simply nuts, we gotta think that maybe somebody, somewhere can call a halt when we get too loopy. Wine case in point: one little movie, Sideways — semi-cutesy, mildly amusing — gets a couple zillion viewers excited about pinot noir. Next thing we know, the 'Net's abuzz with the news that vineyard developers think it'd be a grand idea to plant vast tracts of northerwest Sonoma County in this usually intractable grape, make a lot more of its tasty juice to satisfy this film-fired demand. Included in the early proposals are such notions as leveling a few thousand acres of ancient redwoods, heritage oaks and coastal orchards currently wasting away valuable vineyard slopes and ridges. Oddly enough, assorted Sonoma environmentalists and others, including some lovers of pinot noir, are a tad exercised at this scheme, suggesting this might not be the best possible fate of forests. The enviros are worried that vineyards create problems of increased pollution of soils and waters, and put endangered species, such as salmon, at greater risk. Of course, wine industry lobbyists, marketeers and other mouthpieces have campaigned to marginalize the kooks straddling the road to progress, but even normally compliant couch spuds have apparently opined that maybe the enviros have a point. The state, of course, ever eager to mediate between competing needs, has lumbered into action, proposing to limit the conversion-to-vineyards to a meager 200,000 acres of forests. Let's pause and reflect for a moment on relative values. Here's a superb Sonoma pinot noir (unnamed because they might not be directly involved except as makers of their wine); the pinot garnered 97 points (excellent) from a prestigious national wine publication, and it retails for around $75/bottle. That's a nice price point for the producer, might return a decent profit on investment (though only 400 cases were made). But does that mean that the overall interests of people (and animals, birds, the earth itself) are best served by converting forests to vineyards that yield product value at that level? We might want to ask such questions here in Oregon, because we are already seeing the same kind of pressure. The national wine press might now give short shrift to Oregon wines, but international consumers have been impressed by the quality of Oregon pinots (noir, gris and blanc) and other grape varieties. In our major wine-growing valleys, more and more hillsides are being converted to vineyards; land prices have begun to rise dramatically. Cities and towns near wine countries are feeling pushed toward more commercial development, especially for food and lodging supportive of wine tourists. But before anyone sounds alarms and rushes to lock up lands to prevent such changes, we might want to consider some important facts about wine-growing practices in our state. First, our viticulturists are among the most environmentally conscious growers anywhere. Many of them are organic, sustainable operations, their owners acutely aware of their impact on land, waters, fish, birds and people, even when organic practices are hugely time-consuming and labor-intensive (i.e., expensive). Right now, I'm sipping from a glass of Iris Hill 2004 Pinot Noir ($18), grown on some verdant hillsides in the Lorane Valley abutting the King Estate property (all organic). The wine is delicious, softly complex with flavors of black cherries, maybe a hint of violets, nicely balanced. IH owners Pamela Frye and Richard Boyles are working toward having their new and struggling vineyard certified organic (already designated "salmon-safe"), but Pam says, "It really takes time." But the commitment came first: This is earth-friendly farming, what Ed King of King Estate calls "good husbandry." More examples? After Memorial Day, visit Brandborg Vineyard and Winery in the Umpqua Valley, Elkton, see another aspect of wine's contribution to community values. Their tasting room is also a venue for live music, a deli and an art gallery. And the wines are terrific. Taste 'em all, but don't leave without Brandborg 2003 Syrah ($27), big, lush, juicy, peppery. Yow! One of Oregon's oldest wineries has also won the most awards yet is among the least known. Valley View Winery in the Rogue Valley has been in production for over 25 years, growing hot-country varietals like cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah. Their reserve wines carry Mom's name, Anna Maria, and are often superb, Find their VV Anna Maria 20004 Viognier ($18), a pretty, dry and floral white bursting with flavors like peaches, apricots, ripe pears. (Can't find it? Order from the winery.) Put this with fresh Dungeness crab and be very, very happy. Sure, reduced to its simplest forms, wine's just chemistry. The same could be said for love, for life itself. But there's good chemistry and bad. Near as I can tell, trading a redwood forest even for good wine makes for bad juju. We can do better. Pour a glass of good enols and esters. Give these issues some thought, make some calls, pump up your endorphins.
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