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BROADWAY
& VINE
Downtown
vitality relies on good wine
circulation.
STORY
BY LANCE SPARKS • PHOTO BY LINA STAUB
We ought to be able to measure the health of
a downtown like doctors at a check-up: Put the cuff-thingy on the
bicep, pump it up, eyeball the gauge; thrust a thermometer in the
city's lips, read temp; check pulse, listen to chest, probe here,
probe there, palpate this or that; "Turn your head and cough." Work
up a differential diagnosis, scribble out a prescription: "OK, you
need to build up your residential component. Your retail trade looks
pretty anemic and I suggest a whole new parking regimen. Your traffic
flow has improved but your sidewalks show some panhandler build-up.
A diet rich in fresh money and new investment would improve the outlook.
And take one 6-ounce glass of good wine per day with meals." Objective
factors for measuring city-core health are hard to come by; we may
have stumbled on one.
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Some folks suggest simply counting numbers of Starbucks;
those wily coffee vendors lodge their stores in business-healthy sectors
where they'll thrive. My own objective factor is access to a glass
of good vino with decent nosh: the fruit of the vine is the blood
in the veins of a healthy modern city. If we apply these measures
to downtown Eugene, a revealing image emerges.
First, slice the etherized patient into quarters,
with Willamette and Broadway as dividing lines. Now peer down East
Broadway. Yup, Starbucks, though it can barely stand up to Full
City. Wine? Three fine-dining restaurants
with award-winning wine lists: Zenon,
Ambrosia, Adam's
Place, plus a half-dozen other eateries.
Whole Foods, when it arrives, will deploy its own aggressive wine
program. Offices, cafés, lively retailing, Saturday
Market: Check the chart: East Broadway is
LIVE.
Willamette, north of Broadway, is anchored by the
Hult and the Hilton,
offers good eats and fine art galleries, plus the city's first dedicated
wine bar, Perugino
(767 Willamette), with very sophisticated selections by the glass,
few by the bottle but those craftily chosen and reasonably priced.
Back to the intersection, scan west.
The intersection at W&B is a dead-zone, marked
by a decaying building and (south) a gaping excision in the civic
body. Further west, Broadway's retailers are clinging to life with
specialized clientele, but these blocks are mostly urban canyons,
showing weak signs of civil pulse, with Doctors of Development hovering.
At the far west end of Broadway, The
Broadway (200
W. Broadway) has become a vortex of delectable deli grub and one of
the city's best wine venues, offering wide and deep selections, a
wine bar with a range of tasty options at bargain prices, plus Friday
tastings (5 to 7 pm) that draw modest but fervent crowds. The Broadway
and its neighbors are nourished by new urban condos and fed by the
people-flow into the bus station and the new library, even if there
are two more blights in their midst: the morbid Atrium and the sucking
wound at 10th and Charnelton.
West and a little north on Lincoln, the little-house-that-was-Zelaya
has morphed into The Vintage Restaurant and
Dessert Bar (837 Lincoln), serving light
pastas, appies, sammiches and burgers at moderate prices, but stressing
bar drinks and desserts backed by a small but respectable wine list,
good flavors at good numbers (by the glass pours at $4.50-$6, decent
bottles at under $20). Even on a weeknight, The Vintage pumps with
life.
A couple blocks away, on Olive: when Mona Lizza, Café
Paradiso and the Bookmark all went belly-up, the prognosis seemed
grim, but Oregano's
(830 Olive) has apparently transplanted successfully against tough
competition for Italian cuisine. Part of its success might derive
from a good wine program (drinkable Italian white at $14/bottle?),
including tasting flights (pours of three wines for the price of a
single glass — nice idea).
But the big beat in wine on this street is at Oregon
Wine Warehouse (943 Olive, next door
to Luckey's). Owner Bob Wolfe made his bones in online sales of Oregon
pinot noir (still does, $1.5M in sales last year) and opened OWW,
he says, "to get out of the house." OWW offers a wine bar and facings
of 350 wines, 250 of them pinot noirs. Wolfe is a known pinotmaniac,
so don't expect much in the way of cheap schlock, but, he notes, "I've
got more of the you've-never-heard-of-'em pinots." Tastings are Wednesdays
through Sundays 3 to 8 pm; clients can order up bread with "a hunk
of cheese" for $5, plus assorted other wine-friendly nibbles. OWW
has also become a jazz venue and has plans for doing more catered
special-events dinners (e.g., Mother's Day). If the OWW building can
survive the tender ministrations of the Docs of Devel, it could well
grow into another healthy organ in a living and lively downtown.
Meanwhile, it's generally clear that a glass of good
wine is healthy for most adult human beings — and urban centers.
Pour a round for the city's heart. •Oregon
Wine Warehouse
THE
LONG DETOUR
Traveling
Iraila partners find home for now in Eugene.
STORY
BY MOLLY TEMPLETON • PHOTOS BY BARBARA COOPER
On the evening of the last Sunday in March,
Iraila Mediterranean Rustica looked a little different. The warm,
welcoming space, with its jewel-toned walls bearing family photographs
and artwork, was quietly abuzz with the voices of diners sitting at
booths and the usual small, square tables. But two long tables covered
with white tablecloths and dotted with small dishes of spiced nuts
were empty, waiting for a group to arrive.
That group would be made up of strangers, coming together
for Iraila's monthly family-style dinner. People trickled in and found
seats — a couple here, a solo diner there, a larger group taking
up most of one table. Gradually, conversation picked up as plates
of rich, homemade hummus with warm pita and olives made the rounds.
"Could you pass that?" gave way to introductions, laughter and anecdotes
as new dishes, like flavorful eggplant packets with basil and mozzarella,
came from the kitchen. And through it all, squeezing between tables
to greet regulars and welcome new guests, two personable, always-moving
men wove food and new friends together: business and life partners
Mark Zolun and Kenneth Glenn.
Sit down for half an hour with Zolun and Glenn, and
you may find yourself telling your own life story — even if
you're supposed to be asking about theirs. Iraila's two owners are
outgoing, quick to laugh and ready to talk about anything from their
food-centric around-the-world adventure to the yurt-and-breakfast
they planned to open before life sent them on a detour. Both have
been in Eugene for years. Customers still recognize Glenn from his
time in the comedy and juggling groups Guys with Ties and Out to Lunch,
and both worked at Hilda's Restaurant, Zolun as chef and Glenn as
a waiter.
Iraila, which opened in September 2003, occupies the
same space where Hilda's once was, but Zolun and Glenn hadn't initially
planned to open a restaurant there. A few years earlier, they went
on a 20 country trip that involved several months in and around Europe,
tasting "as much as we possibly could," Zolun said. Once the trip
was planned, the pair started thinking about what they'd do next.
"We thought, 'Oh my gosh, we have to get another big goal,'" Zolun
said. They formed the idea of opening a yurt-and-breakfast in Durango,
Colo., but forest fires and other difficulties waylaid their search
for property. "Right before that ended," Zolun said, "we got a call
to come and help Hilda out opening in this location [24th and Hilyard].
That brought us back."
About a year later, Hilda Ward decided not to continue
in the Hilyard location, which she shared, as Iraila does now, with
Humble Bagel. The building's owners asked Zolun and Glenn if they
were interested in the space. At one time, Glenn had mentioned —
not entirely seriously — the idea of opening a Mediterranean
restaurant named for Zolun's mother, Iraila Guintoli. When the opportunity
arose, Glenn and Zolun took it. And then they worked quickly.
"About three, three and a half weeks we did the floors
in here and all the décor and the menu and the whole nine yards,"
Zolun said. Dishes, tables and chairs were included in the rent, so
"It was kind of like creating a restaurant out of a can. Which helped.
But thank God we had the big trip beforehand because we had a lot
of good cuisines and things to pull from."
Iraila's menu offers a wide array of dishes inspired
by that trip. Turkish, African, Spanish and Portuguese selections
share space with the Italian and Greek flavors that people tend to
think of when they think "Mediterranean." Some recipes are family
dishes, like Aunt Joyce's gnocchi (see recipe, page 15) and Iraila's
lasagna. "I might have a special or a different plate that has something
from two or three different countries," Zolun said, "but each individual
portion of that plate is true to its roots." He uses the now-monthly
family-style dinners, as well as catering and special events, as "my
testing ground to see if I want to put that thing on the menu or not."
 |
| Mark
Zolun and Kenneth Glenn |
Zolun and Glenn are aware they can't please everyone
— calamares, a dish based on a 2400-year-old Greek recipe, has
both loyal fans and those who wish it would disappear from the menu
— but if their food gets a reaction, they're happy. "I'd rather
people have passionate feelings about the food we're doing than forget
it two minutes after they eat it," Glenn said. He and Zolun have passionate
feelings of their own about what goes into their food: This past summer
the restaurant went totally organic. "Our big premise is trying to
get as much locally as possible," Zolun said.
From the beginning Iraila has attracted loyal local
customers, evident in the number of diners Zolun and Glenn greet by
name. But to strangers they are just as welcoming, and they make a
concerted effort to make their restaurant a comfortable place for
everyone. "When I grew up in Chicago, every Italian guy had a basement
bar with pictures of the family in there, and that was some of the
atmosphere we wanted to create — that you're just hanging out
at somebody's house and they've got bucketloads of food and good booze
and nice wine," Zolun said. "And you just get to sit down and relax
and enjoy."
Zolun said his experience at Hilda's "really taught
me that it doesn't matter who comes in, be it the grandest food reviewer
from Fodor's or the Michelin four-star folks to somebody who just
wants a cup of coffee off the street. You've just got to do quality
service and quality food."
Glenn and Zolun were inspired to start offering family-style
meals when two large parties started talking to each other one night.
"We just love the idea of people getting together," Glenn said. More
events are in the planning stages, including a dance night where guests
can mingle over drinks and then have a brief dance lesson, followed
by dinner and a performance. The restaurant is also involved in the
community as a regular Chef's Night Out booth and a sponsor of Free
Shakespeare in the Park.
With so much on their plates and more ideas for the
future, it seems inevitable that Iraila will eventually outgrow its
cozy home and shared space. Glenn and Zolun acknowledge that they're
"pretty much bursting at the seams," and they would love to have more
space and outdoor seating. "Our big dream is to have a house, a real
house, that has a restaurant on the main floor and we maybe live on
the second floor," Glenn said.
"And then retire in Turkey with a yurt-and-breakfast,"
Zolun added with a laugh.
Iraila
Mediterranean Rustica, 2435 Hilyard. 684-8400. The next family-style
dinner is 6:30pm Sunday, April 30. Reservations required.
Lively
Up Yourself
A
Eugene woman writes the book on vegan living.
BY
VANESSA SALVIA
Eugene chef Beverly Lynn Bennett knows
you're not an idiot. If you're interested in becoming vegan or just
want to understand what veganism means, picking up her new book The
Complete Idiot's Guide to Vegan Living just might be the smartest
thing you ever do. In the book, Bennett and her husband and writing
partner Ray Sammartano lay out the philosophy of veganism, offer tips
for coping when others around you aren't veg-heads, explain how to
raise a healthy vegan baby, ensure you're getting the proper balance
of nutrients and, of course, provide plenty of recipes to inspire
you.
Bennett is known as "The Vegan Chef." She offers recipes
and information at www.veganchef.com,writes
a column for VegNews magazine, and for the past four years
has been a chef at Sundance Natural Foods, preparing fresh, healthy
and delicious vegan and vegetarian food for the hot bar.
Bennett's book focuses much attention on the fact
that most vegans choose the lifestyle because they have compassion
for living things and don't want to contribute to animal suffering.
Bennett herself comes from a farming background in Ohio and said compassion
for animals was a big reason she initially moved toward vegetarianism.
Health became an issue as she saw heart disease and obesity appearing
in the farmers around her. "I used to look through the fences at the
cows with my dad as a little kid," Bennett said. "And I never really
liked drinking milk or eating them. I can look at [animals] in peace
now because I don't eat them anymore."
Bennett remembers being a chunky kid. Her synchronized
swimming coach was a vegetarian and suggested she try it. "It really
felt good, and my weight was under control," she said. "It empowered
me to become a vegan because of feeling right." The more she learned
about environmental issues, animal rights and overall health, the
more veganism seemed the right thing to do.
Contrary to what you might think, the word "vegetarian"
doesn't come from "vegetable." In the book, Bennett places the origin
of the phrase in 1847 London. Members of the Vegetarian Society of
the United Kingdom chose to call themselves "vegetarians" from the
Latin word vegetus, meaning "whole, sound, fresh and lively."
They ate vegetables but also eggs, dairy products and cheese. A later
member of that group, Donald Watson, became outspoken about his belief
that vegetarians should not eat any animal products at all. He coined
the term "vegan" in 1944, taking the first three letters and last
two letters of "vegetarian" because, as he said, "Veganism starts
with vegetarianism and carries it through to its logical conclusion."
For most vegans, that means not wearing leather or
wool and not using any products tested on or made by animals, including
honey and lanolin. In her book, Bennett explains all of this and more
in straightforward language geared toward helping neophytes get the
information they need, helping established vegetarians transition
into veganism or helping vegans deepen their commitment. Bennett said
the most important thing for people to remember is to not knock themselves
out at the beginning. "Do little things that you feel comfortable
with doing first," she said. If you really like cheese or milk, try
some of the many dairy substitutes. Cutting back on something is a
good start, even if you're not ready to cut it out completely. Add
one vegan recipe to your repertoire, or consider how meals you already
prepare might be easily converted. Pasta with marinara is something
almost everyone, including kids, enjoys. Add meatless meatballs and
a tossed green salad with vinaigrette and you have a healthful, delicious
and vegan meal.
Many of Bennett's recipes, such as Bangkok coconut
rice and black beans, are easy enough for a weeknight meal and almost
effortlessly vegan. Beans and rice or veggies and grains are natural
choices for well-balanced, simple meals with an almost unlimited flavor
palette. Bennett includes such mouthwatering dishes as creamy lemon-herb
farfalle and chewy walnut brownies and provides how-to for vegan mayonnaise
and vegan cheese sauce. Even breakfast foods get a full chapter in
Bennett's book, with tempting recipes such as almond spice French
toast and tempeh sausage. Most recipes can be prepped in 10 to 15
minutes and don't require a lot of additional steps such as marinating,
reflecting Bennett's belief that veganism need not be any more difficult
or time consuming than what people are already doing.
Bennett shuns the notion that vegans and vegetarians
must eat a lot of tofu. "We were surviving without soy here in America
way before people started eating it here," she said. "People want
to think that all we eat is soy, but you can survive without soy,
easily, and actually some people have soy allergies." Bennett clears
up other misconceptions about the vegan diet and offers sobering facts
about the Standard American Diet she calls "the SAD diet," which is
high in sugar, fat and calories and low in nutrient-rich veggies and
fruit. Try a vegan diet for three weeks, Bennett said, and you'll
notice a difference in how you feel almost immediately and definitely
lose some weight.
No matter what type of information you're looking
for, Bennett's book is a good place to start or extend your vegan
journey.
The
Complete Idiot's Guide to Vegan Living by Beverly Lynn Bennett and
Ray Sammartano.Alpha Books, 2005. Paperback, $18.95.
CHOW FOR
A REASON
Go
ahead — put your money where your mouth is!
BY
CINDY INGRAM
So you've got a few bucks in your pocket and you're
looking for something yummy. Did you know your choice of where to
go for some grub could have an impact on our community? Choosing local
businesses that support neighborhood non-profits, schools, community
groups and human services will not only make you feel all warm and
fuzzy inside, it will also encourage giving practices that benefit
the Eugene area.
Next time you're at the counter ordering your favorite
treats or sitting down with menu in hand, ask about the business's
giving policy. Let your favorite food joints know that giving back
to the community is important to you.
Here are some juicy tidbits on a couple of delicious
companies that deserve your gratitude and encouragement for their
acts of community kindness.
Sweet Life Patisserie: 755 Monroe St,
Eugene; 221-2975
"It's really easy to be nice," says Catherine Reinhart,
who co-owns Eugene's favorite bakery with her sister Cheryl. "The
benefits of donating certainly outweigh the cost."
Sweet Life donated to more than 160 local nonprofits
and community groups just last year. It provides day-old breads and
pastries to several groups on a daily basis, including LEAD, a youth-focused
recreation program working to open a teen center downtown. With a
giving policy of one cake per nonprofit per year, Sweet Life has enough
gifts of support for everyone. Sweet Life also participates in the
annual FOOD for Lane County Chef's Night Out, which treats thousands
of sweet tooths in one special night.
"It's a win-win situation," say the owners: One taste
of a decadent Sweet Life dessert at a fund-raising event and people
come into the store for more. By donating to so many groups, Sweet
Life gets its cakes out there and increases its customer base.
Royal Blue Organics/Café Mam Coffee:
Found everywhere from Market of Choice to the Bijou Theatre; 338-9585
Café Mam has been pouring an excellent cup of
joe for 15 years now. In fact, according to office manager Alli Boch,
it was one of the first organic companies in Oregon. "We were fair
trade before there was even a third-party certifying body." The company's
goal of providing organic products that are both sustainable and
affordable have made coffee lovers with even the tightest budgets
feel energized.
Royal Blue Organics believes strongly in local nonprofits
and supporting community organizations, schools and churches that
are in line with its values. Every year, Royal Blue Organics gives
a significant percentage of the company's profits to NCAP (Northwest
Coalition for Alternatives to Pesticides). NCAP educates the community
about pesticides and lobbies policy makers on issues relating to pesticide
reform. Other chipper recipients of coffee donations include Northwest
Youth Corps, a job training, outdoor education, employment and youth
development organization, and the UO's Native American Student Union.
Among other local food businesses known for their
generosity to community groups are Humble Bagel, Newman's Fish Market,
Roaring Rapids Pizza, Veggies on the Run, Tofu Palace and The Broadway
— enough to ensure tasty options for those who like to give
as much as they like to eat.
THREE
BURRITOS AND SOME ITTY-BITTY TACOS
A
tour of Eugene's best taquerías
STORY
& PHOTOS BY MELISSA BEARNS
AZTEC
SUN
If you're looking for a gigantic burrito, Aztec Sun
is the place to go. Located on Blair between 6th and 7th, Aztec Sun
is half restaurant, half taquería. They have a full liquor license
so you can order up a real, homemade margarita — highly recommended.
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| AZTEC
SUN |
The owners, Big Juan and Olga Lugo, opened Aztec Sun
about a year ago and have created a wonderfully warm and welcoming
feel in this cozy nook of a restaurant. The walls are painted in rough
squares of bright yellow, orange and guacamole green, and each table
is adorned with a cute little vase and a summery, faux mum daisy.
The service is always quick and friendly, and if you're lucky, Olga
or Big Juan might even come out to chat with you for a bit.
Seconds after you sit down, chips arrive crisp, salty
and still piping hot, complemented by a spicy, zesty salsa. We ordered
a wet chicken burrito and sopes, half-inch thick corn tortillas with
raised edges that are fried and then piled high with your filling
of choice. If you're a fan of polenta, you'll love sopes, at least
well-made sopes like the ones at Aztec Sun.
It's easy to screw up sopes, which is one reason they're
a good way to evaluate a restaurant. If they're overdone, they're
rubbery and thick. If the corn masa is not made right, it can be gooey
and as tasteless as cardboard. But the sopes at Aztec Sun were perfect:
fluffy on the inside and crisp on the outside. We ordered them with
Al Pastor, a traditional Mexican form of pork in which the pork is
marinated in a secret mix of spices and then cooked on a rotisserie
with a pineapple on top. As the meat cooks, the juice of the pineapple
drips down, giving Al Pastor its unique flavor. Each bite of the succulent
meat had just the right amount of heat.
But it was the ginormous burrito (enough for three
meals), smothered in a tangy green sauce and delicious, gooey melted
cheese, that was the highlight of the meal. The tender, juicy chicken
was seasoned with a mix of salt, pepper, oregano and other spices
and tasted like it went straight from the sizzling grill into the
burrito. The green sauce was a light, flavorful complement, definitely
worth the extra buck, but just a little heavy on the lemon.
Clearly catering to the wants and needs of Eugeneans,
the menu at Aztec Sun also features a wide variety of vegetarian options
you won't find in more traditional taquerías. That isn't to say
that Aztec Sun's traditional fare isn't authentic. Olga, from Hidalgo,
Mexico, makes everything, including the incredibly delicious orchata,
herself.
LAS
BRASAS
Just down the street from Aztec Sun is Las Brasas,
a very authentic, no-frills taquería. On my own for lunch, I
ordered a chipotle chicken burrito, which came covered in a mild red
sauce. While ambiance is virtually non-existent at Las Brasas, in
the summer it's really fun to sit outside drinking a Corona, people
watching.
The burritos are definitely your best bet, packed
with rice, beans and savory meats that have simmered for hours in
rich spices. The chipotle chicken was so juicy and rich with smoky
flavor that I had to take extra small bites to savor each one. Served
with salsa hot enough to make you sweat, this is the real deal.
EL
PATO VERDE
From the second I walked in the door and the owner/cook
greeted me with a wide, genuine smile, I liked this small taquería,
hidden just north of the intersection of Patterson and 13th. The menu
is simple … ya got your burritos, your tacos, your choices of
meats, a veggie option, a few sides and that's about it. See, after
being in business three years, the owners (who will probably be working)
understand that it's best to serve up a few really fantastic choices
rather than try to be all things to all people.
My Al Pastor burrito, ordered wet and "El Pato" —
the medium size with guac, sour cream and a few other fixings —
actually had a few wonderfully tangy, sweet chunks of pineapple inside.
When they sautéed up the marinated, spicy pork they tossed in
the pineapple, adding a twist to this traditional dish that really
amped up the flavor. The sweetness was a perfect compliment to the
spicy meat.
PLAZA
LATINA
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| AL
PASTOR TACOS FROM PLAZA LATINA |
Hidden inside this amazing mercado Latino is Eugene's
most authentic and delicious taquería. Walk in the front door
and keep going straight, past the rows of foods you won't find anywhere
else in Eugene, right up to the counter where the lovely ladies will
whip up your order right in front of you, chatting in Spanish over
a background of mariachi music. Now a girl can only eat so many chicken
burritos in a week, especially when the menu boasts everything from
tamales to two-bite tacos. So tamales and itty-bitty tacos it was.
Again, ambiance is not the strong point of the taquería
at Plaza Latina. It's the kind of place you go for a quick, unfussy
lunch with a friend. It's the food that's the highlight, not the décor.
I love tamales, but the ones that arrived on my plate
— steaming hot, drizzled with sour cream and heaped with crisp
lettuce — inspired a new level of passion. I sampled one of
each kind available that day: vegetable, pork and chicken. The key
with tamales, like sopes, is to get the masa (the cornmeal base) right.
When made incorrectly, the filling is too dense or too sticky and
sits in your stomach like a lump of lead. It should be hearty and
filling but also soft and light. And the tamales at Plaza Latina hit
the spot. The pork was tender and rich, the chicken juicy and spicy
and the veggie mild and flavorful.
 |
| PLAZA
LATINA |
I followed up my tamale sampler with an itty-bitty
Al Pastor taco. True to tradition, the ladies behind the counter explained
that while the meat was marinated with guajillo chilis, pepper, onion
and garlic, the mixture of spices included "too many to name" and
besides, it was secret. Each flavor-packed bite was complemented nicely
by a squeeze of lime, fresh cilantro and crisp onions. The beans,
which came on the side, were the consistency of thick porridge, just
like they're supposed to be, with a rich, earthy flavor but a little
too much salt.
Aztec
Sun Taquería, 628 Blair Blvd. 684-0124.
Las
Brasas, 541 Blair Blvd. 338-0807.
Plaza
Latina, 1333 W. 7th Ave. 344-6101.
El
Pato Verde, 683 E. 13th Ave. 686-9700.
AROUND
FRENCH COOKING IN 365 DAYS
Cooking
blog turns memoir
BY
MOLLY TEMPLETON
JULIE
AND JULIA: 365 Days, 524 Recipes, 1 Tiny Apartment Kitchen: How One
Girl Risked Her Marriage, Her Job, and Her Sanity to Master the Art
of Living: memoir by Julie Powell. Little, Brown and Company,
2005. Hardcover, $23.95.
When I first heard about
Julie Powell's book, a recollection of her year spent cooking her
way through Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking Vol.
I — and blogging as she cooked — I did what any underpaid,
internet-savvy reader would do: checked to see if the blog was still
up. It was, and as I couldn't quite justify the price of a hardback
book versus, say, making credit card payments, I started reading.
Powell's blog is addicting. A Texan in New York, she'd
moved to the big city dreaming of fame and fortune. Instead, she got
a temp-turned-permanent secretary job that left her unhappy, unfulfilled
and directionless. Her mom's ancient copy of MtAoFC, as Powell
refers to it, was the inspiration for The Julie/Julia Project, in
which she would cook 524 recipes — including kidneys, lobster,
marrow and brains — over the course of a year. Great idea, right?
Why didn't I think of that?
Reading Julie Powell after the fact is — though
hysterical and unexpectedly educational — a little heartbreaking.
I wanted to be there with her, posting comments and encouragement
as dishes refused to gel, lobsters squirmed and the final season of
"Buffy the Vampire Slayer" was unsatisfactory. Her online text is
off-the-cuff, unfiltered and unedited. She breaks down, throws things,
cries often, gets frustrated, makes fantastic food, mocks the price
of truffles, briefly runs away to Texas, drinks vodka gimlets and
nearly gives up at least a couple of times.
I only got to May (the Project ran August 2002-August
2003) in the blog before Julie and Julia, the book, landed
in my lap. It's a couple years later now, and Powell has mellowed
out a bit. Her book, though it doesn't gloss over the messy bits,
is more a book about how blogging about cooking changed her life than
it is either a reprint of her blog or a story about learning to cook
French food. Julie and Julia is like the grown-up, more respectable
version of Powell's online outpourings: Neater, tidier, less dramatic.
Which isn't to say the book doesn't have its fair
share of drama. Powell's move is a pain, and her new apartment has
more than its fair share of plumbing trouble. Her mom pleads with
her to stop cooking. Her single friends have all sorts of romantic
issues. From time to time the Project wreaks havoc on Powell's love
life, though for the most part her husband, Eric, is a patient, encouraging
partner, eating everything she cooks and talking her down from her
snits. The internet also offers some drama, including a lengthy debate
among her "bleaders" (blog readers) about ways to cook rice and comments
from a few folks who really wish Powell would tone down the swearing.
The inclusion of what I take to be the best of many
reader comments the blog received is fantastic. The snippets of fiction,
on the other hand, are slightly less so. Each chapter begins with
an imagined (though based on fact) scene from the life of Julia and
Paul Child, giving Powell a way to trace her own life's arc alongside
Julia's. It doesn't exactly work — in large part because the
prose is a bit stiff in comparison with Powell's own goofy, giddy,
self-deprecating voice — but it does offer an interesting view
of Julia Child written with clear love and admiration.
It's fascinating, entertaining and even inspiring
to read how Powell took her I'm-almost-30-what-have-I-done-with-my-life
stress and literally made something — many somethings! —
with it. But she didn't just make a year's worth of rich French food
and wind up with a book deal, outstanding as those achievements are.
In the process, she also made her life into something in which she
could find joy. "Feel free to hate me," she writes near the book's
end. "I certainly would."
Word
of Mouth...
Sad news at the Saturday Market: Afghani Cuisine
is currently closed due to the death of owner Sardar Ghafoor. His
nieces Shima and Rona Wahed will be re-opening the cart on May 6.
Look for the dedication of a memorial plaque in mid-May.
Finally! As of May 1, Pizza Research Institute
is open for lunch. "Customers [have been] asking about it for quite
some time," Chef Ahjah Boise said. If you're worried about the sometimes-lengthy
waits for their amazing slices, have no fear: "The menu will be similar
but scaled down for lunch so people can get their food quick enough
for their lunch break."
Tucked away behind Mazzi's is the new Hideaway
Bakery, where organic bread is baked in a brick wood-fired oven.
We can't wait to stop by on a weekend and try the rumored-to-be-amazing
potato doughnuts.
After less than a year in their current space, the
Blue Luna Club is picking up and moving to the middle of downtown,
174 W. Broadway. It's a bigger space with a bigger bar and a bigger
bandstand — plus, street level means it's easier for bands to
move stuff in and out. Sounds like a winner.
We hear good things about the recently opened Savoy
Truffle on Willamette, which serves inventive food tapas-style.
Marché chef Stephanie Pearl Kimmel was
recently nominated for a James Beard Foundation Best Chef Award in
the Northwest/Hawaii category. Kimmel is the only Oregonian nominated
this year; the other four nominees come from the Seattle area. Winners
will be announced May 8.
The owners of Wild Thyme, in the space next
to the Greyhound station, have packed up their act for Cottage Grove,
where they plan to open a new place called — if we heard the
voicemail message correctly — Springtime at Hidden Valley.
One corner of campus is getting a facelift, with Eugene
City Bakery and McMenamin's East 19th Street Café
planning or working on renovations. McMenamin's plans to expand into
the neighboring Premier Video space this fall; Eugene City Bakery
plans a limited remodel as spring continues but will continue to offer
tasty bread and pastries at the shop and the Saturday Market throughout.
If you're at Eugene City Brewery for a pint of
Rogue beer (or trivia night) and you're feeling snacky, you really need
to try the buffalo chips. Flavored like wings for those of us who aren't
into chicken, they're spicy and indescribably good in that fried-food
way. Have you been to Latitude 21? The
former Joe's Bar and Grille got a makeover a few months ago and now
serves an international menu in a nicely redecorated, much more welcoming
space. (Don't worry — you can still watch the game!)
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