Eau
de Vie
Wine
& food stores on the coast fulfill gourmet needs.
BY
SUZI STEFFEN
Wary oenophile Willamette Valley residents headed
to the Oregon Coast often pack several bottles of wine, stashing them
alongside wetsuits, hiking boots and tents and that blue Bill Sullivan
book. But the coast is no blasted domain where visitors can only find
tiny bottles of cheap wine in fluorescent-lit convenience store refrigerators.
Instead, a variety of options make the coast a wine destination.
In the late spring of 2004, Carrie Yano opened a gourmet
food store in an old art co-op building. Yano, originally from Monterey,
Calif., visited Yachats in 2003. She was about to begin Lutheran seminary
school in Berkeley. "I never went back," she says. "Yachats was perfect."
Yano thought that the only thing missing — as coastal travelers
who have gone in search of certain ingredients might know —
was a place to buy "prosciutto, good feta cheese, good olive oil,
minced ginger." In the summer, Yano didn't mind driving to Eugene
or Newport for higher-end food ingredients, but in the winter? "I
was driving in 40-50 mile an hour winds, and I thought, I can't handle
this. We need a store in Yachats."
So Yano opened Gourmet Lady, with foods ranging from
Swedish ginger cookies to specialty cheese and smoked salmon. She
decided to have one rack of wine, with room for 80 bottles of Oregon
wine.
Those 80 bottles didn't last long. With hordes of
townspeople and tourists descending upon the wine rack, Yano's next
decision was easy even if she wasn't fully prepared.
"All I knew was that they grow good pinot here —
that was the extent of my Oregon wine knowledge," she says. With the
advice of an Oregon wine rep who lives in Yachats, she learned enough
to move her wine rack across the deck into her new store, The Wine
Place (Hwy 101 & Fourth). Now, Yano carries about 800 bottles
of 350 different wines, and she's expanding The Wine Place so that
there will be more room for wine and local winery tastings. Those
tastings, events in which visitors pepper the winemakers with questions
and happily sip a variety of wines, come at 1 pm each Saturday.
The original rack now holds "Carrie's recommendations,"
which currently include Meditrina, a pinot noir/syrah/zinfandel blend
from Sokol Blosser in Dundee; a "rising star" pinot noir from Piluso,
a small winery in Marion County; and Cramer's pinot noirs. "A really
fun one," she says, "is the Red Hawk Winery Grateful Red pinot noir."
At $12 a bottle, the wine flies off the rack.
But Yano's business isn't alone in bringing vino-culture
to the coast or even to Yachats. A couple of months ago, managers
Marsii and Harley Charron opened The Yachats Wine Trader (125 Ocean
View Drive), a wine bar and café with a strong selection of European
and South American wines in the bottle room. For food, Marsii recommends
Harley's prosciutto-wrapped peaches. South American whites like Lo
Tengo Torrentés are selling well this summer, she says, and she
recommends trying rosés as well. "They're really exciting, complex
wines," she says.
A little closer to Eugene, Florence's The Grape Leaf
(1269 Bay St.) serves dinner on Wednesday and Thursday nights amidst
a large selection of wine. And farther up the coast, Newport's Village
Market & Deli (741 NW Third) provides gourmet cheeses and other
gourmet food while the highly popular Blu Cork Wine Bar (613 SW Third)
is open from noon to midnight for the summer and has recently expanded
its tapas menu to include wood-fired pizzas.
For those who worry about driving after imbibing,
there's more decadence available: Coastal Luxury Limo tours (www.coastalluxurylimos.com)
stops at the Wine Place and local vineyards. Now that sounds
like bliss.
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