Eugene Weekly : Wine : 11.02.06

Prime Roll
The unifying theme is found in human hearts
BY LANCE SPARKS

We human beings like stories; they link motives to actions, causes to effects, making a coherent narrative, or a tapestry, in which strings of warp and woof are contrived to make an image, a comprehensible vision of experience. Our stories weave themes into our chaotic lives, like rhythm and rime, chords and scales make songs out of sounds.

Most times, though, we know that our real lives develop out of combinations of incidents and accidents, possibilities and probabilities, a series of poker hands. Sometimes we're dealt junk, can't make a single play, do nothing but throw down, wait for the next shuffle and deal. Then, sometimes, the cards just come: aces in the hole, aces on the flop; fill an inside straight on the turn, a flush on the river; rake pots in and stack the chips. Gamblers call it the Prime Roll, and when it comes, it's a thing of beauty, and we give thanks.

Lately, we've been on a prime roll. We can see it so clearly from here, looking back, a string of glowing jewels, a symphony of experiences. And the luster comes, not just from fine food, superb wines, lovely places, but from auras of deep and abiding affection, friendships that can never be purchased, pearls beyond price.

Start a few weeks ago, though the strand stretches much longer: Bend, Sun River, cold mornings, fast-warming days, autumn glory of golden poplars and birch, air perfumed with pine resin, crunch of leaves under our steps, jagged line of the Sisters, Broken Top, Bachelor serrating the horizon, forests of dark fir spears climbing their flanks. An evening roll into downtown Bend, Old Town, the brown-brick heart of what used to be the sleepy center of Central Oregon. Alight in a pretty little joint, Blue Fish: clean, modern, spicy aromas in the air — garlic, olive oil, bread, seared viands — candles glowing on white cloths, big windows offering views of busy sidewalks. Then dinner, food craftily presented, with jump-in-the-mouth flavors, accented by delicious Bel Pente 2004 Pinot Noir ($40), flavors rounded and complete, texture of moiré silk, subtle valleys of black cherries, hills of spice, hints of violets. Most important, the full house: laughter, lively chat, halo of heartfelt unity. Our friend Richard gloms the check, gifts the pleasures to all.

Next, new place, old Lane Building, Savoy Truffle, cozy, warm, run by sweet people — Angela Englert and Chef Bill Town — only 12 tables but packed on a Friday night for a menu of imaginative tapas (small plates, generous portions), the knockout smoked prime rib. The wine (Angela's jones): Cline 2005 Ancient Vines Zinfandel ($15), huge, powerhouse, bull-ridin' wine. More details will follow in another place, but the glow lingers.

Then, a fog-wrapped evening by the Willamette, home to Shakespeter and Soho Sandy, interior glowing in butter-yellow light, table laid in autumnal colors and gleaming crystal, dense bouquets of summer's last dahlias, zinnias, sage and lavender. Toasting, lifting flutes filled with pale salmon-hued Argyle Brut Rosé ($24), full-flavored sparkling from Oregon, lively bubbles to complement filo shells cupping nibbles of fresh crab. Harvest feast follows: pork tenderloin, roasted fingerling potatoes, delicately curried eggplant, salad of fresh local greens topped with the last raspberries, the first nuts. Many tasty wines, the highlight Broadley 2003 Pinot Noir Claudia's Choice ($50), spendy yes, but less so on shares, and a wealth of flavors — cherries, raspberries, pepper and wisps of cinnamon — lingering, echoing on palates. Dinner is savory, the wines exciting, but the enchantment of easy laughter and hope-filled hearts completes the play, sends all home winners.

Tangy afternoon at Tim Shimmel's new wine shop at Midtown Marketplace (the old L&L Market, for long-time residents, 1592 Willamette for newbies): Tim pours tastes of Domaine Font de Michelle 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape ($37), one dollop in a regular rimless stem, another in same-size stem of Breathable Glassware ($12/stem), which, Tim says, citing BG's promo material, "does in five minutes what would be done by 45 minutes of decanting." Sure, I think, skeptical. Sip from regular crystal: Rhone wine is yummy, deep, rich, complex, still tannic, promising years of bottle-age maturation from which it will emerge satin-smooth yet still robust. Taste from Breathable glass: Wha'? Taste again: Day-um. The wine IS satin, tannins already smooth, flavors in full bloom. How? Why? A mystery. Tim pours Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Dry Riesling ($7.50), lovely white, outstanding value, not profound but charming ripe-pear flavors with mineral notes, would marry happily with light appetizers on Thanksgiving.

Return that night for dinner at Bel Ami, the place humming, fireplace warming the open, high-ceilinged room. Feels fresh here, more polished. Jeff Passerotti, recently of Marché, then Vaquero, has taken charge; talent draws talent. Rachel at the desk is confident, easy; our server, Wendy, knows her food, wine, comfortable service. Dinner is stellar, plates beautifully sauce-painted, accented with edible flowers and greens, each component delish. Wines: Capitello 2003 Pinot Gris ($28), flawless, then, from the wine shop ($10 corkage), Mystic 2003 Merlot ($24), Oregon wine, Washington grapes, deep, plumy-rich, better every minute opened. Lovely Mary and artful Michael Backus host, a royal flush in hearts.

In the season of giving thanks, I wish for all of you, all of us, chances to know the Prime Roll. But I don't see it as luck or fate; in my story, the unifying theme is simply love in human hearts. It's a tapestry revealing the power of beauty and affection to shape the pleasures of being alive together. Thanks, and thanks ever more.

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		Prime Roll The unifying theme is found in human hearts BY LANCE SPARKS We human beings like stories; they link motives to actions, causes to effects, making a coherent narrative, or a tapestry, in which strings of warp and woof are contrived to make an image, a comprehensible vision of experience. Our stories weave themes into our chaotic lives, like rhythm and rime, chords and scales make songs out of sounds. Most times, though, we know that our real lives develop out of combinations of incidents and accidents, possibilities and probabilities, a series of poker hands. Sometimes we're dealt junk, can't make a single play, do nothing but throw down, wait for the next shuffle and deal. Then, sometimes, the cards just come: aces in the hole, aces on the flop; fill an inside straight on the turn, a flush on the river; rake pots in and stack the chips. Gamblers call it the Prime Roll, and when it comes, it's a thing of beauty, and we give thanks. Lately, we've been on a prime roll. We can see it so clearly from here, looking back, a string of glowing jewels, a symphony of experiences. And the luster comes, not just from fine food, superb wines, lovely places, but from auras of deep and abiding affection, friendships that can never be purchased, pearls beyond price. Start a few weeks ago, though the strand stretches much longer: Bend, Sun River, cold mornings, fast-warming days, autumn glory of golden poplars and birch, air perfumed with pine resin, crunch of leaves under our steps, jagged line of the Sisters, Broken Top, Bachelor serrating the horizon, forests of dark fir spears climbing their flanks. An evening roll into downtown Bend, Old Town, the brown-brick heart of what used to be the sleepy center of Central Oregon. Alight in a pretty little joint, Blue Fish: clean, modern, spicy aromas in the air — garlic, olive oil, bread, seared viands — candles glowing on white cloths, big windows offering views of busy sidewalks. Then dinner, food craftily presented, with jump-in-the-mouth flavors, accented by delicious Bel Pente 2004 Pinot Noir ($40), flavors rounded and complete, texture of moiré silk, subtle valleys of black cherries, hills of spice, hints of violets. Most important, the full house: laughter, lively chat, halo of heartfelt unity. Our friend Richard gloms the check, gifts the pleasures to all. Next, new place, old Lane Building, Savoy Truffle, cozy, warm, run by sweet people — Angela Englert and Chef Bill Town — only 12 tables but packed on a Friday night for a menu of imaginative tapas (small plates, generous portions), the knockout smoked prime rib. The wine (Angela's jones): Cline 2005 Ancient Vines Zinfandel ($15), huge, powerhouse, bull-ridin' wine. More details will follow in another place, but the glow lingers. Then, a fog-wrapped evening by the Willamette, home to Shakespeter and Soho Sandy, interior glowing in butter-yellow light, table laid in autumnal colors and gleaming crystal, dense bouquets of summer's last dahlias, zinnias, sage and lavender. Toasting, lifting flutes filled with pale salmon-hued Argyle Brut Rosé ($24), full-flavored sparkling from Oregon, lively bubbles to complement filo shells cupping nibbles of fresh crab. Harvest feast follows: pork tenderloin, roasted fingerling potatoes, delicately curried eggplant, salad of fresh local greens topped with the last raspberries, the first nuts. Many tasty wines, the highlight Broadley 2003 Pinot Noir Claudia's Choice ($50), spendy yes, but less so on shares, and a wealth of flavors — cherries, raspberries, pepper and wisps of cinnamon — lingering, echoing on palates. Dinner is savory, the wines exciting, but the enchantment of easy laughter and hope-filled hearts completes the play, sends all home winners. Tangy afternoon at Tim Shimmel's new wine shop at Midtown Marketplace (the old L&L Market, for long-time residents, 1592 Willamette for newbies): Tim pours tastes of Domaine Font de Michelle 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape ($37), one dollop in a regular rimless stem, another in same-size stem of Breathable Glassware ($12/stem), which, Tim says, citing BG's promo material, "does in five minutes what would be done by 45 minutes of decanting." Sure, I think, skeptical. Sip from regular crystal: Rhone wine is yummy, deep, rich, complex, still tannic, promising years of bottle-age maturation from which it will emerge satin-smooth yet still robust. Taste from Breathable glass: Wha'? Taste again: Day-um. The wine IS satin, tannins already smooth, flavors in full bloom. How? Why? A mystery. Tim pours Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Dry Riesling ($7.50), lovely white, outstanding value, not profound but charming ripe-pear flavors with mineral notes, would marry happily with light appetizers on Thanksgiving. Return that night for dinner at Bel Ami, the place humming, fireplace warming the open, high-ceilinged room. Feels fresh here, more polished. Jeff Passerotti, recently of Marché, then Vaquero, has taken charge; talent draws talent. Rachel at the desk is confident, easy; our server, Wendy, knows her food, wine, comfortable service. Dinner is stellar, plates beautifully sauce-painted, accented with edible flowers and greens, each component delish. Wines: Capitello 2003 Pinot Gris ($28), flawless, then, from the wine shop ($10 corkage), Mystic 2003 Merlot ($24), Oregon wine, Washington grapes, deep, plumy-rich, better every minute opened. Lovely Mary and artful Michael Backus host, a royal flush in hearts. In the season of giving thanks, I wish for all of you, all of us, chances to know the Prime Roll. But I don't see it as luck or fate; in my story, the unifying theme is simply love in human hearts. It's a tapestry revealing the power of beauty and affection to shape the pleasures of being alive together. Thanks, and thanks ever more.






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