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It's
a Biscuit! It's a Power Bar!
No,
it's Super Natural Cooking
BY
MOLLY TEMPLETON
SUPER
NATURAL COOKING by Heidi Swanson. Celestial Arts, 2007. Paperback,
$20.
Food porn. It's a goofy term, but it's one highly
applicable to the new cookbook from writer, photographer and blogger
Heidi Swanson, who runs www.101cookbooks.com,a
recipe and food blog that gets 500,000-plus hits per month. Her new
book, Super Natural Cooking, is a gorgeous treatise/recipe
collection designed to help readers expand their use of natural and
whole ingredients. The jacketed paperback's thick, textured pages
give extra life to Swanson's bright, enticing photographs, which show
beautiful food that's not so perfect that it looks uncookable. I'd
want to lick the pages, but the matte images stop me just short of
the paper, suggesting that perhaps I cook the dishes instead.
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Swanson's recipes are easy to follow and many involve
a simple ingredient list and basic kitchen tools — though since
her focus is on minimally processed foods, she's going to tell you
to get natural, organic cane sugar, brown rice, amaranth flour and
other slightly off-the-beaten-path items. Some ingredients may be
more difficult to find (and Swanson does offer sources at the book's
end), but with Eugene's wide array of natural stores, many of her
suggested ingredients await, especially in the bulk foods aisles.
Each chapter begins with an introduction to the central
ingredients and ideas highlighted in the section's recipes: basic
whole foods pantry items, "superfoods," cooking by color, using a
variety of flours and grains and trying natural sweeteners. Swanson
doesn't just want you to use whole and natural ingredients but to
know what their benefits are, where to find them, how to select them.
Her tone is enthusiastic and knowledgeable but not evangelistic or
bossy. She's not telling you what to do; she's telling you
how you can eat better, and pretty easily at that. With flours,
she suggests blending less common flours (barley, mesquite) with ordinary
flour until you get the hang of the various grain and non-grain flour
options. A delicious sushi bowl recipe includes a technique for cooking
tofu to perfection; the secret is simply to use a dry nonstick or
well-seasoned pan. Dessert recipes include trans-fat-free thin mint
cookies, coconut panna cotta and raspberry curd swirl cake —
but I'm getting ahead of the meal here. Try the creamy wild rice soup
with sweet potato croutons, a different sort of curry that's thick
with chewy, filling grains of wild rice. The spring minestrone (see
recipe) is a bowl of soup so green it nearly glows; giant crusty
and creamy white beans with greens is next on my to-make list. At
the book's end, Swanson includes a simply presented list of basic
recipes, from clarified butter to bright red tomato sauce, that act
as building blocks for her more complicated taste treats.
It's not often that a cookbook is so beautifully designed
and engrossingly written that you can pick it up and read it cover
to cover. But Super Natural Cooking hits a perfect balance
of recipe and information, introduction and instruction, design and
function — meaning that, apart from the ingredient lists for
a few recipes, that's pretty much what I did with this one.
Little
Italys | El
Taco Express | Three
Forks | Cheaper
Eats | Super
Natural Cooking | Wandering
Goat | Hartwick's
| Oakway
Wine and Deli |
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