Day
Bites
To
the cafés along the way
BY
CHUCK ADAMS
Growing up on the Pacific Northwest coast, I knew
the roadside restaurant as a mainstay of family day trips to Portland,
Seattle, Mount St. Helens and campgrounds in between. My memories
of these places boil down to no-frills casual dining, usually scarfing
down an obscenely large burger with a thick milkshake flavored with
local berries. These eateries had names like Clark's, Chuck's, the
Elderberry Inn, Hump's, Oney's or the Dairy Maid. My family rarely
ate out in town, but once we were on the road, away from Mom's kitchen,
the desire for these on-the-way cafés grew exponentially.
 |
| Alpha-Bit's
marionberry-peach pie |
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Still, I'm relatively new to the Willamette Valley,
so I have only a few local day trip café stories to tell. One
such story came after a weekend backpacking trip with friends up the
McKenzie River trail, when the Vida Café
served me up the formidable Monster Burger, a half-pound of ground
beef topped with melted Swiss and all the fixings. Be warned: The
side of home fries is equally gut busting.
Waitstaff in establishments like these are typically
known for their congeniality, but our host at the Vida was a teenager
with enough sass to keep us both appalled and in stitches. When we
asked for cream, she turned around and said, "No, you may not." And
then we waited. She came back from the kitchen empty handed. We asked
her again and she threw her hands up and said, "Fine!" and then, while
storming back into the kitchen, said, "You guys are so pushy!" That
was it: one cook in the back and this sassy teenager running the place.
After a few days of freeze-dried soup and stark wilderness, the Vida
Café more than welcomed us back to society.
For those who make the long commute to southern Oregon
on a semi-regular basis, the options are fairly limited. But the favorite
between Eugene and Medford has to be the K-R
Drive-In in Rice Hill. So many times I've
stopped here and run into friends or friends of friends. We all like
to pretend this place is our own little secret, but we're not fooling
anybody. If a book were written about the best dive eateries in Oregon,
the K-R would top the list. The burger and sandwich menu is nothing
to gush about, but no matter: On to that Umpqua Dairy ice cream cone!
I queried my fellow staff members for recommendations
beyond my shortlist. One staffer mentioned the Gingerbread
Village in between Eugene and Florence as
a good bet for gingerbread and ice cream. Another named the Green
Salmon Coffee Shop in Yachats ("great pastries,
awesome drinks, super sandwiches … a lot of community spirit")
while other staffers offered "that
chowder place" in Mapleton and the Stockade
up near Nimrod (long since torn down).
But there was one day-trip café that made everybody's
list: Alpha-Bit
in Mapleton. They raved about the coffee, the tuna salad sandwich
and the smoothies. But mostly, they talked about the pie. Being a
pie lover, I hit the road and turned my whole theory for this article
on its head: The food would be my destination. Anything that happened
between here and there would be "on the way."
So I pulled into Mapleton in the early afternoon of
the Country Fair weekend and found Alpha-Bit to be somewhat deserted.
It seems the rush at day-trip cafés is in the early morning (for
those in search of a caffeine fix) or late evening (when dusk forces
a mass retreat from recreation). Nevertheless, at Alpha-Bit I felt
welcome, as any stranger should. I knew exactly what I wanted: a slice
of marionberry-peach pie with a scoop of Prince Pückler's vanilla
ice cream and a cup of Allann Bros. coffee, a special brew roasted
just for Alpha-Bit.
I glanced at their menu briefly, read their manifesto
on their "intentional community" and noticed they spelled falafel
"felafel." Eccentric characters entered, apologized for coming through
the back door, said hello, then left. The talk among the two employee-owners
dwelled on gambling. For communal, no-frills people, they sure had
an interest in scratch-its, Megabucks and other lotteries.
Then the pie came. A thick slice, reheated in the
oven, with a nice big scoop of ice cream. They used honey instead
of sugar in the crust, which gave it a not-too-sweet but savory appeal.
The pie, along with the dollar coffee (with as much cream as I liked),
formed the perfectly mellow afternoon comfort food that any day tripper
needs.
Of course, the health of independently owned roadside
eateries depends on the choices we make from behind the wheel or handlebars
of our vehicle. Sometimes we can't have it our way all the time. Sometimes
it's possible beauty can be a snotty waitress with a stick up her
ass.
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