
Get
Wet
Trek
to Wassen Creek, Oregon's old-growth Mecca
BY
JAMES JOHNSTON
It's tricky recommending hikes in November and December,
when there's a good chance people who take my advice will be soaked
by winter rain showers. My solution is to recommend a hike that
guarantees you'll be soaked to the skin and probably also tumble
headfirst down an 80-degree slope … thus removing any awkward
uncertainty about what you're getting into.
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| Wassen
Creek |
I know of many epic off-trail outdoor adventures
to be had in Oregon. I never write about them and rarely even talk
about them, except to my closest friends, and only when they're
buying me a lot of drinks. This is because I am extraordinarily
greedy when it comes to solitude. I do not want people to go to
the remote places I like.
I reveal one of my most closely guarded secret spots
in this column only because (surprise, surprise) the Bush administration
is proposing to log it. I would be delighted if you would visit.
I will even take you there myself (read on). I am envisioning an
epic (defined by Webster's as "impressive by virtue of greatness
of size, scope or heroism") outdoor adventure (picture Marlow's
quest for Kurtz in Heart of Darkness) to locate a fabled,
almost mythical Oregon Coast Range landmark — the Devil's
Staircase, down which tumbles Wasseen Creek. Your safe return is
anticipated but not assured.
Where is Wassen Creek? Wassen lies between the Smith
and Umpqua Rivers in one of the most remote and inaccessible regions
of the impenetrable rainforest that is the Oregon Coast Range.
What's Wassen like? Sherry Wellborn, editor of the
Oregon Coast Range Wilderness (published in 1982 and now
a collector's item — thanks Bob, for my copy) says of Wassen
Creek: "Rated on a scale of one to 10, for both beauty and hiking
difficulty, Wassen Creek wilderness scores 20+."
Wassen Creek is ridiculously rugged, jammed full
of giant trees and lush underbrush. Its numerous tributaries spill
over steep canyon walls in a series of silvery cascades. The most
outstanding feature of the area is "The Devil's Staircase," where
the creek spills over a half dozen sandstone benches into deep,
bathtub-sized pools.
If there were any justice, or sense, or sense of
justice in the world, the 19,000 acres of roadless forest surrounding
Wassen Creek would long since have been protected by Congress as
wilderness. In 1984, the U.S. House of Representatives included
Wassen Creek in the Oregon Wilderness Bill it passed. But our then-Congressman
Jim Weaver was forced by Mark Hatfield to choose between Wassen
Creek or another equally deserving roadless area in southern Oregon.
"Weaver loved them both," says Andy Stahl, a local
conservationist who brought the first ever lawsuit to stop logging
in spotted owl habitat not far from Wassen Creek, "but the southern
Oregon tract was at the time under more imminent threat of logging."
Until recently, Wassen was administratively protected
from logging as an "Area of Critical Environmental Concern" (ACEC)
in the Bureau of Land Management's forest plan for the area. But
in the Bush administration's proposed Western Oregon Plan Revision
(WOPR), both the ACEC and the spotted owl critical habitat designation
that protect the area will both be dropped. Clearcutting and roadbuilding
could soon follow.
As I said earlier, I would love to show the area
to you in person. I will be leaving from the Kinko's parking lot
on 13th and Willamette at 8:30 am on Sunday, Dec. 2, in the company
of Mr. Stahl, the Cascadia Wildlands Project's Josh Laughlin and
other hardy souls. If you'd like to join us (or would like directions
to visit on your own), please call me at 484-2692 or email james@fseee.org
This hike will be extraordinarily strenuous. And wet. It will be
worth it.
Wassen should be wilderness. With your help, it
will be. Stay tuned.
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