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BY
GUSTAVO ARELLANO
Dear Mexican: I was born in beautiful El Paso, and
my parents are from Juaritos. I always wondered why Mexican restaurants
en los Estados Unidos use queso amarillo — which I associate
with los Estados Unidos — on their food instead of queso asadero
or queso Oaxaca, which taste so much better. And who came up with
Tex-Mex or New Mexican food names? — El Minero de Albuquerque
Dear Albuquerque Miner: Silly chuco! You and your
ilk are so advanced in the Reconquista que se le olvidan that most
non-Latinos still don't know Spanglish! So, before I answer tu pregunta,
a translation note for non-wabs: "Juaritos" is a nickname for Ciudad
Juarez, Mexico, "queso amarillo" is "yellow cheese," a "chuco" is
someone from El Paso, and "los Estados Unidos" means "E.E.U.U."
On to the question — although the Mexican
is all-knowing, he also knows when others know more, you know? And
so I forwarded your query to Robb Walsh: food editor for the Houston
Press, author of The Tex-Mex Cookbook, one of the most Mexican
gabachos since Charles Bronson. Walsh traces the yellow-cheese phenomenon
to America's eternal headache: Texas. "The Texas exhibit at the
Chicago World's Fair of 1893 was a recreation of [a] San Antonio
chili stand," he tells the Mexican. "It served chili con carne and
other Mexican-style foods to Midwesterners for the first time. The
food caused a sensation — the buzz at the fair created a rush
to market 'Mexican food' products" across the country that were
really Tex-Mex grub. Thus, most of what passed as Mexican food in
the United States until recently is really Tex-Mex food, Walsh says,
and "Tex-Mex is known for its gooey melted cheese."
But why the queso amarillo, gabacho? "Mexican white
cheese doesn't melt very well," Walsh continues. For The Tex-Mex
Cookbook, he interviewed older chefs who attested to his position
and also explained that, "during World War II, the 'Wisconsin' —
as cheddar was known in those days — wouldn't melt, either.
That's when [Mexican cooks] started using American cheese." As for
the language portion of your question, Minero, Walsh responds thusly:
"The term 'Tex-Mex' was originally used to describe the half-English,
half-Spanish patois spoken on the border — hence the bilingual
food names. When you say cheese enchiladas, beef tacos, chips and
salsa, guacamole salad, cold cerveza, and 'Hey Baby, que paso?'
you are talking Tex-Mex." Read more Walsh wackiness robbwalsh.com.
Mexicans complain that corporate America places
obstacles on the brown man's ability to succeed. However, when I
speak with Mexican-American law students and inquire as to what
type of law they want to practice, the vast majority express an
interest in criminal, plaintiff, government or nonprofit type of
law. It's rare that I speak with a Mexican that wants to tackle
corporate law. I hear the same when I visit with college students
— they seem to focus on entry-level jobs. The expectations
seem very low. ¿Qué no tiene hambre la raza or what is
the deal? — Hot for Scalia
Dear Gabacho: Your assertions will come as a surprise
to the chingo of Mexican students who graduate each year from American
universities, to the members of the dozens of Hispanic/Latino/Chicano/Mexican-American/whatever-wabs-like-to-call-themselves-in-a-particular-region
Bar Associations across America, and to the many vendidos who learned
long ago that the quickest road to assimilation is a six-figure
salary and a blond from Wellesley. Not only that, but you fail to
explain what's so wrong about trabajando for the public sector.
It might not be the most glamorous career track, but working for
nonprofits, the courts, and other such small-fry plaintiffs truly
is God's work, and you know how tight Mexicans are with Diosito
— indeed, recently translated sections of the Nag Hammadi
library have revealed the previously unknown Gospel of Jesús.
Besides, the way America's economy is tanking (caused by our reliance
on oil and China's rise and not illegal immigration, gracias very
mucho), concentrating on the wretched of the legal system seems
like the best investment since Google in 1996.
Got
a spicy question about Mexicans? Ask the Mexican at themexican@askamexican.net
And those of you
who do submit questions: Include a hilarious pseudonym, por favor,
or we’ll make one up for you!
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