WELCOME TO WHITEAKER The comforting bread-and-cookies smell of New Day Bakery has been replaced by the comforting simmering tomato and balsamic vinegar smells of a brand new Whiteaker neighborhood restaurant, Pasta Ravello. Launched by Red Barn owners Dan and Mandy Beilock, the former soup, sandwich and treat stop has been given a Tuscan-inspired makeover and is dishing up freshly made ravioli, fettuccine, gnocchi, antipastos and, of course, plenty of wine and cheese. Pasta Ravello's manager, Danielle St. Hilaire, explains that the local, organic philosophy embraced by the nearby Red Barn grocery is also integral to every dish served in the restaurant. While the servings are far from scanty, she emphasizes that when it comes to high quality, crafted foods, less is more. She uses cheese as an example. "We use less cheese because it is good cheese," she says. "We don't pile everything on in that American way of eating." The opening menu at Pasta Ravello features both an Oregon and an Italian cheese plate, and one of the soups available the day we stopped in was a creamy artichoke and Rogue Creamery blue cheese concoction; no shortage of stinky goodness here. The menu also allows for half portions of most pasta plates so patrons can taste smaller amounts of the overwhelming combination possibilities (nine types of pasta and six sauces, for those who care to do the math). There are eggless and whole wheat options available, and St. Hilaire says they will eventually move to adding both a vegan and a gluten-free menu, once their kitchen "has a solid grasp." Pasta Ravello encourages an experimental eating experience, welcoming questions and providing a "foodie" atmosphere without the stuffiness. The restaurant features some stunning local art and plans to host revolving shows as their business settles in. Watch for the addition of rustic pizzas and sandwiches in the next few months. (345 Van Buren; 338-2956.) — Adrienne van der Valk   Oui! C'est Biologique! | An Inconvenient Fruit | Rockin' Hot Food | Holy Cow-Tastrophe! | Break Out of the Same Old, Same Old | Ukrainian Rhapsody | Welcome to Whiteaker | West Side Slice | Go Ga Ga Over Ga Ya | La Vida Local |Food, Not Fads |