GO GA GA OVER GA YA Susanna N. Kwon and Kyung Hee Childers. Photo Todd Cooper. Walking into the Ga Ya Korean Restaurant, it's easy to do a double take. First, the Ga Ya has taken over the former location of the House of Noodle Vietnamese Restaurant; you'll find similar East Asian cuisine, just slightly more centered on teriyaki, yakisoba noodles and kimchi. Second, you will be greeted by the two Korean women who run the whole show, Kyung Hee Childers (known as Jackie) in the front as hostess and manager and Susanna N. Kwon in the back as chef — two bubbly, good humored ladies who will lead you through the modest list of entrées, most of which are written out in Korean. Childers briefly flirted with the restaurant business in 2001 when she ran the Red Pepper at Gateway Mall food court. That business lasted only a few months before Childers began to work the night shift at Hynix as a manufacturing technician. The years passed and Childers, a single mom, grew weary of never being able to see her daughter. When the owner of House of Noodle had to step down for health reasons, Childers was asked to take over. But she wanted to do cuisine from her native country, particularly the food of southern Korea. So she roped her good friend Kwon, who was working in Hynix's cafeteria, into a co-ownership and started Ga Ya, which quietly opened on Jan.14 just a few doors down from Café Zenon. As for the menu, bibimbap is the specialty dish and includes rice topped with vegetables, beef and egg, served with a scoop of chili pepper paste. For the adventurous, galbitang is a cow's joint bone soup Kwon described as a "white soup" that takes over eight hours to simmer. Childers also recommended the beef bulgogi, a dish consisting of thinly sliced beef marinated in soy sauce, sesame oil, garlic, sugar, green onions and black pepper. Bulgogi means "fire meat" in Korean, but it can be prepared with mild spiciness. Side dishes of pickled seaweed, cucumber salad and kimchi complete most meals. And for those anti-MSG crusaders out there, Childers mentioned she doesn't use it. "Never," added Kwon. "Don't say never," said Childers, laughing. "We have it, but we try not to use it." Be sure to specify if you are a lover or hater of MSG, and Childers and Kwon will be more than happy to accommodate you. In the brave world of restaurant enterprise, their enthusiasm may take them a long way. (860 Pearl St.; 686-1114) — Chuck Adams   Oui! C'est Biologique! | An Inconvenient Fruit | Rockin' Hot Food | Holy Cow-Tastrophe! | Break Out of the Same Old, Same Old | Ukrainian Rhapsody | Welcome to Whiteaker | West Side Slice | Go Ga Ga Over Ga Ya | La Vida Local |Food, Not Fads |