I am a Chicano in Connecticut. I moved from Arizona to the East
Coast for my dream job. I have to admit that I’m still homesick.
Connecticut is a completely different world. To sum it up in one
phrase, vale madre. It took awhile for me to find a Mexican
restaurant close to me. It’s very comparable to that cardboard tortilla
outlet known as Taco Bell. When I first went there, I was served
chips and salsa. Of course, I dove right into the appetizer. The
chips were very stale and the salsa tasted like candy. Sí, como
dulce. I asked my mesero if they had a hotter salsa because
the salsa was nothing but salsa de tomate with some chunks
of cebolla in it. He told me that they have a spicy pico
de gallo and that he would bring it right out. ¿Sabes que, carnal?
What I received was nothing but a bowl of chopped cebolla
with some cilantro in it! He proudly displayed a sonrisa and
asked if I liked it. I returned his preguntawith
anotherpreguntaand asked if this was his
hot sauce. His smile quickly faded and then he said, “Pues tu
sabes. Tenemos que servirle esa comida a ellos que no están acostumbrados
a nuestra comida.” I responded by telling him that if you’re
going to serve Mexican food, serve Mexican food.
I’m tired of Mexican-owned restaurants advertising their comida
as auténtico, only to be disappointed by how crappy the food,
OUR food, tastes. Why does our gente feel as if they have
to water down our great cuisines for the gabachos? If Mexican
restaurants want to advertise nuestra comida as authentic,
then why don’t the dueñosof the restaurants cook
and show off the beauty of nuestra cultura and forget a candy
flavored salsa in favor of a great-tasting salsa that not only makes
our mouths water, but also makes us
teary eyed?
Chicano in the CONN
Dear Wab: A tip for the next time you encounter salsa milder than
vanilla: carry your own chiles. The Mexican always travels with
a sandwich bag containing his favorite peppers — a couple of long,
green serranos for freshness, gnarled chiles de árbol to bless my
beans with dry heat, the tiny pequín if I need crunch and one neon-orange
habanero to rub in the eyes of any possible stalkers. Your sad story
is one experienced by many Mexicans who travel through the parts
of this country that wabs have just begun to colonize, but it’s
not unique to us: New Yorkers always bemoan the quality of bagels
everywhere outside of Brooklyn, and San Franciscans simply won’t
eat burritos not folded in their famed Mission District. I will
argue, however, that Mexican cuisine is more whitewashed than others,
but I won’t reveal my thesis until next year, when my next book
Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America (And Soon, the World)
appears. Stay tuned, and stay enchilado!
What’s up with all the salsa music in Mexican restaurants?
No More Congas!
Dear Gabacho: Solamente no es Mexican eateries where
you find Caribbean rhythms replacing Mexican regional music. Movies,
newscast or segments about Mexicans, Ugly Betty — really,
any media manifestation of Mexicans needing a soundtrack usually
eschew banda sinaloense (the brass-band one), conjunto
norteño (the accordion one), pasito durangüense (the
Melodica one) and mariachi (the sombrero one) for salsa or any other
type of Latin beats. It’s easy to blame anti-Mexican hatred for
such swaps, but the razón is obvious: gabacho America’s
hatred of polkas, waltzes and all the folk music of a previous generation
of idiot Catholic immigrants that influenced Mexican regional. Seriously:
When was the last time outside Cleveland, Milwaukee, Oktoberfest,
The Lawrence Welk Show, an octogenarian dance in heartland
America, a Mexican party or a Weird Al Yankovic concert that you
heard such music appreciated without irony? America likes cool,
and the polka-loving bola de gente I just mentioned are about
as hip as Dubya.